CLIMBING EXPEDITIONS

At present, although there are good routes on the east of the mountain, the only permitted route is the southern one. The southern route spreads the climb over three days up and one day down, using two campsites at 3,200m and 4,200 metres, and mules to carry supplies to the first camp. It starts from Elikoyu, an abandoned village in the foothills and sticks to a ridge for much of the way, thus avoiding the Ulker glacier which careers down the face into deep and jumbled gorges below. The path, though rocky, is clearly marked. Above 5000m are permanent icefields, so crampons, ice axes and ropes are required. The summit is reached via a long ridge and is no more than a rounded hump marked by cairns.

Below is a typical programme for the climb, taken from the Middle Earth Travel web site. Several other companies organise expeditions with similar agendas; check that you are allowed enough time for acclimatisation.

Day 1 : Transfer to hotel in Dogubeyazit, visit Noah’s Ark on way. Overnight in hotel.
Day 2 : Transfer to Eli village after breakfast, load the equipment on the mules, climb to 3200 m campsite. Total walk 2-3 hrs. Camp.
Day 3 : Acclimatisation (getting used to altitude) Climb 4200 m campsite return 3200 m camp. Climb 3.5-4 hrs. Overnight in camp at 3200 m.
Day 4 : Climb to 4200 m camp accompanied by mules carrying the luggage. Pitch tents and spend night at high camp.
Day 5 : If weather conditions are suitable, climb to the summit (5165m), using harnesses and ropes, and return to the campsite at 4200 m.
Day 6 : Extra day, depending on the weather conditions on Day 5, we may make another summit attempt. Otherwise, omit this day.
Day 7 : Strike camp, load equipment to mules and descend past the 3200 m camp to meet the bus at Eli village.Transfer to hotel in Dogubeyazit. Total walk 3-4hrs. Overnight in hotel.
Day 8 : End of trip, transfer to airport.